The 1994 Pouilly-Fuisse Clos Monsieur Noly Vieilles Vignes (25 cases for the American market) could be described as the Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne of the Maconnais. Made from yields of 18 hectoliters per hectare (just over one ton of fruit per acre), this awesomely endowed, massive yet refreshing Chardonnay possesses extraordinary intensity and precision, an unctuous texture, a leesy, earthy, complex set of aromatics (honeyed nectarines and pineapples galore), and marvelous flavor concentration and length. This extraordinary wine performed as splendidly in this recent tasting as it did in January in Paris. It is an exquisite Chardonnay, as well as a new reference point for what can be achieved in the Maconnais. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 888-7939