The Bouchard 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts emphasizes the bitter side of bitter-sweet black fruits and herbs, which mingle with meat stock on a firm and for the vintage surprisingly substantial palate. Here is another slightly austere but impressively persistent Pinot in the present collection, and one that deserves to be revisited in 2010. I suspect it will merit following for 5-6 years. Director Philippe Prost emphasized the importance of flexible and surgical picking (with a crew numbering upwards of 300) and getting his crop to Bouchard's battery of presses within two hours via a fleet of mini-vans. He insists that relatively little triage was necessary on the domaine vineyards (as opposed to those under contract) and the estate wines are certainly predictably stronger as a group. (I have generally mentioned in the notes that follow which wines are from Bouchard's domaine and which from contract fruit, but have explicitly noted this as part of a wine's description, only if there are two versions of the same appellation within the present portfolio.) The fruit was crushed very gently and the wines racked only once – at 10-14 months, than usual – explains Prost, in order to guard against exposed or drying tannins, a policy which my tastings suggest was generally successful. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

From its privileged position right next to the grand cru of La Tache, Aux Malconsorts has produced a heady, perfumed wine, relatively delicate, relying on its succulent red fruits to give body. It is on the sweet side of Pinot Noir, jammy with red berry flavors, and already delicious. ——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 92