Obviously, the top cuvee is the Vieilles Vignes, and the 2004 Gigondas Vieilles Vignes exhibits medium-bodied elegant style with more stuffing and fruit than its sibling in this vintage. It nevertheless retains the cool-climate Grenache character of the appellation with a sense of minerality. These are the personal selections of Burgundy wine broker Alain Corcia. All of the wines are blends from top estates put together by Corcia, an accomplished taster as well as blender, and then aged either in foudres or in smaller barriques and bottled with very little clarification. Since he has a distribution system that directly imports from him without any middle men, prices are modest. An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284, and Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400