A wine that's drinking fabulously today is the full-bodied, deep, rich and downright sexy 2003 Gigondas Prestige des Hautes Garrigues (80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre aged in small barrels). Fully mature, yet with beautiful purity of fruit, lots of peppery spice, ground herbs and ripe fruit, its tannin are integrated and sweet, it has a great mid-palate and killer finish. I'm sure it will continue drinking nicely for another 7-8 years, but there's no need to hold off.

The estate’s flagship cuvee is the Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues Cuvee Prestige (a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre, some of which is aged in small oak barrels). Fashioned from the same blend as the 2004, the 2003 Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues Cuvee Prestige tips the scales at 15.8% alcohol, and possesses extraordinary opulence and richness. While there is some hard tannin still to be resolved in the finish, there is no doubting there is enough concentration and richness to support the wine’s tannic structure. It is a deep, chewy Gigondas with chocolaty blackberry and cassis notes intermixed with licorice, truffle, new saddle leather, and graphite characteristics. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 12-15 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Dark and alluring, with espresso, mesquite and game notes mixed into the fig, currant and blackberry fruit. Rich, smoky finish has sweet spice and licorice notes. Shows power, length and balance. Drink now through 2010. 300 cases imported.??–JM??Region: France / Southern Rh?ne / Gigondas Select to Add

Even though this tips the scales at close to 16% alcohol, there’s no trace of heat, just an incredible lush, creamy texture and layers of rich raspberry and blackberry fruit. Hints of coffee and cocoa from two years aging in oak impart nuance, but the old-vine fruit comfortably carries the day. Drink now–2015+. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 92