The 1996 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes exhibits rich, earthy, and wild mushroom aromatics. This medium-to-full-bodied gem has an expressive, white pepper, spice cake, and anise-laden flavor profile. While it lacks the vibrant acidity, deep minerality, and ageworthiness of Carillon's other offerings, this is a broad, expansive, and delicious wine. The 1996 vintage marks the return of Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes to the Domaine Louis Carillon line-up. Jacques Carillon explained that his family had torn out all of their Les Combettes vineyard (from pre-World War II plantings) after the 1986 vintage, let it stand fallow for six years to "give it back life," and replanted it in 1992. So for ten years, this estate paid massive property taxes on a non-revenue producing and highly sought-after premier cru vineyard, a testimony to this domaine's dedication to quality. Projected maturity: 1999-2005. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A slender, serious, and obviously dedicated man, Jacques Carillon loves the structure and ageworthiness of his family's 1996s. He compared the aging of a wine to a wave, saying the optimum time to drink it is during its crests. He feels his '96s will be in the trough of the wave between 2000 and 2001, and should hit their first crest between 2003 and 2005. I tend to agree with his assessment, and will add what this modest man did not: these are absolutely fabulous examples of elegant, mineral-packed Pulignys that will offer years of enjoyment to those lucky enough to acquire them. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802, Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990, Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel (516) 364-1850 and, under the "Cuvee Nicole" label, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.