The Boillot 2007 Puligny-Montrachet La Truffiere smells alluringly, mouth-wateringly, and complexly of orange, pineapple, white peach, narcissus, salt spray, and chalk dust. Subtly oily in texture yet insistently bright, this offers another of those shimmering exhibitions of mineral, floral, fruit interplay and interweaving of which this vintage is especially capable. The subtlety of mineral shadings and a vaguely musky, animal aura about this lend intrigue, not that one would – even absent them – be less than enticed to revisit this beauty over the next 6-8 years. Jean-Marc Boillot is now operating out of a re-modeled cellar and with a sophisticated new bottling line. His early harvest date in 2006 had been explicable on any number of levels, not least his personal preference for refreshment and minerality (as reflected in his love of classic – i.e., the presently endangered sort of – dry Alsace Riesling). But Boillot picked early in 2007, too – on August 28, no less, and for only 5 days – again citing his desire to retain acidity, and adding that encroaching botrytis was also a concern. “I think my 2007s will evolve a bit like 2004,” he predicts, “which gained volume in their elevage and in bottle and are proportional, not massive” making clear that both collections reflect his ideals. But he was clearly out to assist this process by having been strict about settling his musts, but then “done lots of batonnage.” Potential alcohols at harvest were in the low 12s and even after chaptalization, none of the finished wines reach 13%. Importers: A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70 and Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802