From Pataille's oldest vines in the lieux-dits of Clos du Roy, Clémengeot and Les Ouzeloy comes the 2017 Marsannay L'Ancestrale, a brilliant effort that unwinds in the glass with aromas of raspberries, plums and cherries mingled with hints of smoked meats, orange rind and rich soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a concentrated core of fruit framed by a muscular chassis of powdery tannin, this will need and reward some bottle age.