Lightly-cooked red raspberry and strawberry in the Groffier 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses inform a texturally creamy yet at the same time faintly sharp palate. Suggestions of musk and truffle add intrigue. This is impressively concentrated, and for all of its initially flattering palate impression there is a tightness of tannin and a positive nervosite that promise serious potential. While more complex, this is less clear- or pure-fruited than the Sentiers. A hint of heat and exposed tannin surface in the finish though, and I would love to revisit this in 2010 or 2011 to reinforce my tentative impression that it would be worth following for up to a decade. Here I can see points of resemblance – as Groffier suggests – to the 2000, which was impressive when tasted alongside.The 2006 Groffier collection – from fruit picked beginning September 23, and in only four days – was noticeably lower in alcohol than a number of recent predecessors, and was diminished by one-third vis-a-vis 2005, after botrytis- and hail-affected berries had been culled.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93, also imported by Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

A fresh, spicy style, exuding sandalwood, cigar box and cedar notes over blackberry and licorice flavors. This is slightly chewy in texture, with grip and staying power. Best from 2011 through 2020. 50 cases imported. -BS