The existence of Malat’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Trockenbeerenauslese Susse Reserve is an important reason why this year’s “Das Beste” bottling tastes dry: the botrytis grapes were picked out to inform this elixir, vinified in a used barrique. Malt, honey, tobacco, and pungent smokiness in the nose usher in a creamily-rich, soothing, honeyed palate with yellow plum preserves and caramel added to the more Veltliner-typical suggestions of tobacco and pepper, which persist in a long, multi-layered finish. This should be worth following for 8-10 years at least. Only the two lightest of Gerald and Michael Malat’s Gruner Veltliner were harvested in October, the rest in November. “We simply had to wait for things to dry out,” explains Gerald Malat, “and to me there is a clear difference between any of the wines harvested before and those harvested after the big rains. Those harvested long enough afterward are more multi-layered.” Among the most notable characteristics of this estate is the sheer number of grape varieties with which it often succeeds. But while Gruner Veltliner and Riesling here were notable in quality this year, intensely aromatic Muskateller and Sauvignon bottlings were too brusque and coarse to merit high recommendation. A sampling of Pinot Gris from barrel was promising but will need to be re-tasted for a proper appraisal. It is good to know that the wines of this estate may soon gain wider distribution in the U.S., but due to the recent change in importers, retail prices were not yet available for any of their 2007s.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com