The Rouget 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges offers a sweet aromatic smokiness and pungent minerality akin to machine oil, hot steel shavings, char, and peat, all of which are allied to ripe, fresh blackberry. Texturally refined yet with real cut and brightness, this finishes with penetrating pungency and complexity already anticipated by its aromas, to which are added broth-like richness akin to meat stock and a savory, saliva-inducing salinity. This should be a delight for at least 6-8 years. Emmanuel Rouget was very pleased with the "unusually long evolution" of his youthful 2006s – which I last tasted on the eve of bottling – rendered possible not just by the frigid temperature of his relatively shallow cellars, he explained, but also by what for this vintage are impressively low pHs. Even after slight chaptalization, he says the present collection scarcely exceeds 13% alcohol. These factors no doubt help account for the balance of ripe flavors and textural polish with cut and vivacity that the 2006s here display, rendering them – as Rouget puts it – "more precise, fresh, and elegant" than his 2005s, in which respect they remind him of his 1996s. "If you compare them directly today, my 2005s almost taste heavy by comparison with these 2006s," he notes. Moreover, my own impression is that the current crop of wines has proven more resistant to the same levels of new oak – 50-100% – as were used on his 2005s (whereas the 2004s received nada). "I think that impression is on account of the acidity," of the 2006s, opines Rouget, adding "for me the acidity of Pinot is more important than the alcohol. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400