A brilliant cuvee that gets aged 36 months in 100% new oak barrels, (limited in availability – around 325 cases), is the Cote Rotie La Landonne. The 2004 Cote Rotie La Landonne possesses scorched earth, roasted meats, smoked herbs, licorice, and sweet black raspberry and cassis flavors that jump from the glass of this deep, full-bodied Cote Rotie. The wine is rich, has good acidity, hints of black olive in the mouth, and a long, heady finish. It is approachable now but promises to be better in 3-4 years and last for 15 or more.The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Drinking great today and a classic expression of this incredible terroir, Delas's 2004 Cote Rotie la Landonne is almost overflowing with notions of Asian spice, olive, dried earth, hints of bacon fat and ample sweet Syrah fruit. Aged 36 months in 100% new French oak, it's medium to full-bodied, elegant, silky and seamless, with no hard edges and a layered, ready-to-go feel. I'd happily drink bottles anytime over the coming decade.

Pure and defined, with a range of aromas and flavors that's impressive for the vintage--coffee, olive, white pepper, tobacco, blackberry and currant fruit. The long finish shows nice flesh and minerality and really blossoms with air. A wine whose breed shines through the vintage. Drink now through 2012. 230 cases made. -JM