The huge, 240-acre estate of Fontanafredda has suddenly won a new lease on life after lying almost dormant for several years. This is the second vintage produced under new management, and the style is open and accessible, but still powerful. There is pure ripe fruit on the nose, flavors of black figs and wild strawberries and dry tannins, which still do not dominate the fruit. ——R.V.(11/15/2002)—— 90