The 2006 Lalama, the product of an unusually hot and dry year, is 85% Mencia, 7% Garnacha, and the balance Brancellao and Mouraton fermented in 500-liter barrels and aged on the lees for 21 months. It offers up smoke, lavender, mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry aromas leading to a round, complex, smooth, and elegant wine with splendid balance and a lengthy, pure finish. Tradition and respect for the past is what Dominio do Bibei, under the leadership of Javier Dominguez, seems to be all about. There is no stainless steel here, with cement and various sizes of wood utilized to contain the wine. There are approximately 100 acres of vines under cultivation, both red and white. Importer: Andre Tamers, De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; www.demaisonslections.com

From a DO in Galicia destined for great things, this is a wonderfully pure wine made from the Mencia grape. It''s focused and precise, with red damsons, darker fruits and a delightful helping of fresh herbs. Graceful and light, it has character, balance, lovely depth and a smooth, sleek finish. £18.95