Run by brothers Diego and Alberto, Cusumano consistently delivers some of Sicily’s best-valued red and white wine year after year. This delicate white, made from the island’s native Insolia variety, goes down particularly well thanks to its white flower and almond paste aromas. It is clean and refreshing in the mouth but has just enough build and intensity to remind you of its sunny, Sicilian roots. Yet the wine is not overwhelming in any way and that’s what makes it such a good match to pasta or fish dishes.——M.L.(11/15/2006)—— 86