The 2005 Donna Lisa Rosso Riserva is a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera aged in French oak. Here the fruit is dark, rich and weighty, while hints of licorice and leather add complexity on the close. The French oak gives the Riserva much of its textural volume, but frankly I find just as much beauty in the Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva 50th Vendemmia. Puglia’s indigenous red varieties are so fascinating; they hardly need much make up to reveal their beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. These new releases from Leone de Castris are some of the finest wines I have ever tasted from this property. Consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella arrived in 2006 but only began making the wines from start to finish in 2008. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620