The dark ruby/purple-colored 1996 Pagos Viejos (400 six packs available for the United States) is a fabulous Rioja. It boasts a complex bouquet of lead pencil, red as well as black currants, spice box, cedar, and tobacco. Made from low yields, the wine displays a gorgeous mid-palate, great depth and purity, and a finish that lingers for nearly 40 seconds. Drink this spectacular effort over the next 15-25 years. ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567