Gambal’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres represents a major step up in both concentration and refinement in his current collection. Pure, clear citrus, apricot, and white peach flavors are allied to doughy richness of texture and nutty, chalky depth. This is anything but heavy, and finishes with quite invigorating freshness yet also with hints of honey, malt, and caramel. I would look for at least 5-7 years of enjoyment, although there is no reason not the relish it young. The wine was due to be lightly fined and bottled soon after I tasted it. American Alex Gambal (about whom more can be found in issue 171) is gradually expanding his negociant activities while managing to purchase some excellent acreage as well. His 2006 collection in white at times reveals in high alcohol and heat the dangers of this vintage’s precipitant ripeness, but strikingly low pH by vintage standards helps in many cases to keep the wines lively and bright. Various importers