The 2008 Auxey-Duresses Les Clous impresses for its sheer energy and breadth. An open, seductive bouquet leads to layers of deep fruit in this gorgeous, expressive white. This is an extraordinary wine for the appellation. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. My tasting with Lalou Bize and Estate Manager Frederic Roemer encompassed a wide range of wines, culminating with a breathtaking 2008 Chevalier-Montrachet. The D’Auvenay wines are singular expressions of site and vintage as interpreted by one of the world’s greatest vigneronnes and winemakers. At times words seem superfluous when confronted with these magical elixirs. The 2008s are quite marked by a vintage that produced very low yields, even by this house’s standards. The wines are intensely colored and truly massive. The 2007s, on the other hand, show much more in the way of aromatics and site specific character. In 2007 the vintage plays a supporting rather than leading role. I also tasted a number of 2009s, but Lalou Bize was right in her hesitation to show me the complete lineup, as the 2009s I tasted were still recovering from their bottling. I will report on those wines as soon as I have an opportunity to taste them in better conditions. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040