The 2007 Barolo Bussia Dardi/Le Rose is rather lean in this vintage. The aromatics aren’t as well delineated as is typically the case, while the fruit lacks the layered, explosive quality that makes the finest vintages here so compelling. Ultimately, this looks to be an early maturing Barolo from Colla. The Dardi/Le Rose was fermented in cement, where the wine also underwent malolactic fermentation, prior to being racked into large neutral oak casks. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Growers with vineyards in Bussia did not have an easy year in 2007. Hail was a major issue, and few producers seem to have been as heavily impacted as Poderi Colla. The estate lost a full 65% of their fruit, and even the fruit that was salvaged was not of the typically high level that informs the best wines.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Here’s a classic expression of Nebbiolo with soft oak tones that have deftly been worked into the natural fabric of this fruit-forward wine. The aromas are direct and intense with accents of cola, cherry, licorice and violet. The tannins are surprisingly silky and smooth given how young this wine is. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 92