Readers who want to know why Taurasi is often called the ‘Barolo of the South’ need to taste Terredora’s 2004 Taurasi. This dark, powerful wine draws the taster in with an array of dark fruit, herbs, tar, smoke and anise, all of which come together on a classic, firm frame. There is fabulous clarity and depth in the glass. The wine is elegant, rich and persistent, but never heavy. In short, all of the elements are present for the 2004 Taurasi to develop into a splendid wine in the coming years. The Taurasi is aged for 18 months in small French oak barrels followed by a further 18 months in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. These new releases from Terredora are among the most impressive I tasted. From top to bottom these are serious wines readers will not want to miss. The 2009 whites, all of which are aged in steel, reflect the rich, generous style of the vintage, while the 2004 Taurasis are simply off the charts. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

A vein of pure elegance runs straight through this austere Taurasi and holds it together until the firm, tannic end. Along the way, it imparts tones of crushed black stone, resin, dark fruit, prune, cola and dark spice. Pair this wine with meat or aged cheese. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 90