Tart but ripe black raspberry and cassis are allied to tobacco and singed meat in the Gros 2006 Clos Vougeot Le Grand Maupertui, which offers a flattering creamy richness yet an invigorating sense of vivacity. The bitter side of its black fruits, its meatiness, and stony notes gain prominence in the wine's long, formidably intense, and positively frisky finish. Such a youthfully charming and enticing Clos Vougeot you won't often encounter, although I am confident it will be worth following for at least a decade. Anne Gros's 2006s were bottled after only 15 months to preserve the fruit and charm of a vintage she envisages for near-term enjoyment. This is a vintage whose strong suits are characteristics she regularly says she prizes above all – elegance, charm, lift – perhaps one reason why she has been particularly successful. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

A big, structured wine, still young, with a dense, firm character. The wine is solid, with concentrated black fruits that power deep down into the texture, adding their richness to licorice, bitter chocolate and inspired acidity. Age for at least five years.——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 96