The vintage is in decline but the 1983 San Leonardo still shows a beating pulse. This is a fragile and delicate wine that could shows signs of disintegration if left to aerate for too much time. But in that encouraging window of time (from one to two hours after decanting) the wine is beautifully redolent of evolved notes of balsam herb, Teriyaki, cured meat, crushed mineral and licorice. The aromas definitely reveal the true age of the wine, yet they also show a tangible level of sophistication and pedigree. In 1983, the Guerrieri Gonzaga family ripped out cement vats in the basement of their monastery-winery to make room for a Bordeaux style barrique cellar room. The cellars had previously been cemented off by German command forced who inhabited the villa during World War II.