Neither Molise or its neighboring regions are particularly well-known for dessert wines, but the 2002 Apianae suggest that this gap could easily be filled. A late-harvest Moscato with many a similarity to the Vins Doux Naturels of France’s Languedoc-Roussillon (though no alcohol is added here to block fermentation and leave some residual sugar), the golden color, the musky pear and peach nose with additional notes of honey and raisins, and the excellent viscosity and warmth of its fresh, long flavors make this something quite unusual for Italy. Drink: now-2010.A house very well worth getting to know for the professionalism of Alessio Di Majo Norante and the contribution of the near-ubiquitous Riccardo Cotarella, who here struts his stuff in a formerly unknown part of Italy.Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620