The 1992 Cote Rotie Blonde et Brune has turned out to be far tastier than it appeared when I tasted the component parts prior to blending and bottling. It possesses a dark ruby color, as well as a fragrant, open-knit nose of coffee, smoke, cedar, and raspberry/currant fruit. Soft and spicy, with a sweet attack, and round flavors in its medium-bodied personality, this is a wine to drink over the next 5-7 years. One of the other admirable characteristics of a tasting at Guigal is that unlike most wine cellars in Burgundy, Guigal's wines actually taste better after bottling than they do in the cellars. I do not know the reason for this, but Guigal says it is because, "the understanding of how much time a wine needs in either small barrel, tank, or foudre is essential to producing fine wine, and that each vintage and each wine is bottled when I believe it is ready." I should add that his tendency to do a natural bottling for all his reds, in addition to sulphur adjustments that are among the lowest in France, also add to the quality of the bottled wines. I say this because the 1992s are all in bottle, and this vintage has turned out far stronger in bottle than when I first reported on the wines several years ago. It is not a particularly good vintage in the northern Rhone, but Guigal's best wines are the stars of the vintage (along with the luxury cuvees of Chapoutier). Guigal still has a couple of difficult vintages to bottle, but his 1992s have turned out surprisingly strong. In addition, the 1993s are satisfying for the vintage. Following 1993 are two great vintages for Guigal - 1994 and 1995. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (818) 548-1200

Closed now but still fresh, this red offers good balance and moderate concentration, but isn't showing much fruit flavor. The finish is clean and long. Try in 1998. -