The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes possesses nicely delineated aromatics but little of the weight or depth I expect in an old-vines bottling. The lack of fruit exposes slightly rustic tannins. Charlopin has more than three hectares for his Vieilles Vignes, an enormity by Burgundian standards. This is made from a variety of vineyards, all older than 50 years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Philippe Charlopin showed me a large number of wines during my recent visit. This is a solid range of wines from top to bottom, although I can’t help thinking Charlopin might be better served by focusing on fewer wines and aiming for the higher level of quality that informs his finest bottles. The majority of these wines were made from 100% destemmed fruit. In 2009 fermentations lasted from 20-25 days. Most of the wines saw 30% new oak, although the Grand Crus saw 50% new barrels. The house style favors a rich, opulent expression of fruit.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800