The 2005 Hermitage blanc is an amazing effort that defines the classic style of white Hermitage. It offers hints of marzipan, roasted hazelnuts, quince, licorice, honeysuckle, citrus oil, and wet stones. It is a superbly concentrated and powerful wine. It should drink well for 30+ years. A bastion of traditionalism and terroir-sensitive winemaking, the Chaves, both father Gerard and son Jean-Louis, continue to establish higher and higher standards for artisanal, high quality winemaking without manipulation or compromise. As I have said many times in the past, after more than two dozen visits to their cellars in Mauves, the Chave address remains one of the most extraordinary places of learning in the wine world. Most importantly, they have had a remarkable succession of successful vintages that began in 1994.Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Dense and packed, but amazingly bright at the same time, this offers dried papaya and pineapple fruit backed by a paraffin note, with fresh floral, white peach and heather honey notes. Then the long, superstony finish takes over, and sails on nearly endlessly. This has power, precision and refinement all together. Drink now through 2030. 1,200 cases made. -JM