Bouchard's 2006 Pommard Rugiens displays less purity, textural refinement, or lift than the corresponding Pezerolles, but supplies its own impressive variation on sappy, tart, bitter-sweet black fruit underlain by peat, iodine, and in general that mineral dimension popularly ascribed to its ferrous soil. I would be inclined to plan on enjoying this over the next 3-4 years, as I am suspicious of the quality of its tannins longer-term.
Director Philippe Prost emphasized the importance of flexible and surgical picking (with a crew numbering upwards of 300) and getting his crop to Bouchard's battery of presses within two hours via a fleet of mini-vans. He insists that relatively little triage was necessary on the domaine vineyards (as opposed to those under contract) and the estate wines are certainly predictably stronger as a group. (I have generally mentioned in the notes that follow which wines are from Bouchard's domaine and which from contract fruit, but have explicitly noted this as part of a wine's description, only if there are two versions of the same appellation within the present portfolio.) The fruit was crushed very gently and the wines racked only once – at 10-14 months, than usual – explains Prost, in order to guard against exposed or drying tannins, a policy which my tastings suggest was generally successful. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767