A 2005 Marsannay Boivin, from old vines, displays intensely ripe fresh and distilled cherry and plum, without any superficial sweetness (although there is a faint note of toasty oakiness), and emphasizes bitter fruit skin and fruit pit character on the palate while offering an invigorating, mouth-coating saltiness. Fine-grained, polished and bright, this finishes with real lift and liveliness. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity.Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?).Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.