Conterno’s 2003 Barbera d’Alba is easily one of the best wines of the vintage. A rich ruby, it offers intense ripe dark fruit, with suggestions of tar, smoke and licorice on a medium to full-bodied frame, while retaining a classic sense of proportion and enough freshness to provide balance. It comes across as less concentrated than when I last tasted it from cask. A great effort. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2013. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404 and The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484