The 2009 St.-Joseph Esprit de Granit reveals the most minerality and should be consumed over the next 5-6 years. (Not yet released) These are all very good efforts from the large cooperative in Tain l’Hermitage. Although the three red wines exhibit a touch of oak, that component is pushed to the background with more emphasis put on the vintage’s ripe, concentrated Syrah fruit. Importer: Vinum, Seattle, WA; tel. (206)621-8843

This is richly oaked, which may turn off some northern Rhone purists, but the underlying fruit is superb, with the toast, cedar and vanilla notes amply supported by black cherry fruit. The texture is velvety, leaving the flavors to linger softly on the finish. ——J.C.(10/1/2011)—— 90