The thick, buttery, unctuously-textured, fat, lush 1992 Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet is more developed than the 1992 Corton-Charlemagne. It should be drunk over the next 7 years. This firm has dramatically improved the quality of its winemaking. Olivier Leflaive brought in the talented Frank Greux, and the quality of their wine since 1989 has gone from one strength to another. In 1992 several of the wines will be bottled unfiltered. With three consecutive good vintages, Olivier Leflaive is now a name to be considered seriously. Importer:Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY

Seductive and silky, all the pieces in the right places, showing complex white truffle and honey flavors that are so enchanting. Long, polished finish. Great now, but will improve through 1997.