As in other recent years, the Jadot 2006 Meursault Perrieres unfortunately represents a mere four barrels (100 cs.) worth of fruit purchased from a single grower, whose holdings are near the Clos des Perrieres. Hauntingly scented with rowan, vanilla, marzipan, peach and hazelnut oil, this combines richness of texture with a combination of pungency, inner-mouth perfume, and stony minerality, all rather reminiscent of the corresponding Genevrieres. But there is a significant extra measure of sheer length, seductiveness, and mystery here that Meursault from other sites can seldom equal, and that should guarantee fascination for at least 6-8 years. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.) Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

As in other recent years, the Jadot 2006 Meursault Perrieres unfortunately represents a mere four barrels (100 cs.) worth of fruit purchased from a single grower, whose holdings are near the Clos des Perrieres. Hauntingly scented with rowan, vanilla, marzipan, peach and hazelnut oil, this combines richness of texture with a combination of pungency, inner-mouth perfume, and stony minerality, all rather reminiscent of the corresponding Genevrieres. But there is a significant extra measure of sheer length, seductiveness, and mystery here that Meursault from other sites can seldom equal, and that should guarantee fascination for at least 6-8 years.The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.)Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

Taut, tense, structured and tight-knit, this wine is almost steely in its direct line of taste. The fruit has some richness and flavors of pears and some spice, but this wine relies on its impressive structure.——R.V.(10/1/2008)—— 92