Wafting from the glass with notes of honeyed orchard fruit, elderflowers and beeswax, Gautier Thevenet's 2018 Viré-Clessé Quintaine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with a sweet core of fruit, lively acids and a long, saline finish. The vintage means that this is especially charming out of the gates, but it's likely to be impressively long-lived all the same.