Although it is almost impossible to find, Yves Gras’s 100% old vine Grenache, the 2010 Gigondas Grand Grenache 66 is well-worth a search of the marketplace. Aged completely in foudre, it boasts over-the-top richness, a full-bodied mouthfeel, lots of black fruits, loads of viscosity, alcohol and fruit extract and supple tannins. It, too, should drink well for 20 years. Several years ago Yves Gras purchased some hectares from Paul Jeune (the proprietor of Mont Pertuis) in the renowned La Crau sector of Chateauneuf du Pape, and his first two efforts are noteworthy. Under the negociant label called Santa Duc Selections, Gras produces some delicious white wines that merit attention from consumers. They are generally blends of Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Viognier. Yves Gras is also the winemaker for Patricia Wells, who has a home and cooking school in Vaison La Romaine, a few miles north of Gigondas. Her estate is called Clos Chanteduc. The Domaine Santa Duc produces a Cotes du Rhone called Les Quatres Terres, which is a 4,000-case blend of 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah and the rest Counoise and Mourvedre. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

Playing it slightly closer to the vest, but with a similar character, is the 2010 Grand Grenache 66. The alcohol is about 1% lower, and the wine has a slightly lower pH and higher total acids. The kirsch liqueur component is there, along with spring flowers, cedar, black currants and some loamy soil notes. It is full-bodied, but not as massive and intense as the 2009. I am sure this wine will put on weight during its elevage in foudres in the cellars of Santa Duc, so it will be interesting to see how it shows next year out of bottle. (Not yet released)One of the long-time benchmarks for superb Gigondas is Yves Gras’ estate on the high plateau several kilometers outside the entrance to this old Roman village. He has also expanded into the negociant end of the business with his Santa Duc Selections, which are very reliable wines worth a serious look. Until 2007, there were consistently two cuvees of Gigondas made in top vintages. With the finest vintages, Gras has now added a 100% Grenache cuvee called Grand Grenache 66, from a tiny parcel of vines and essentially just one small foudre. Turning back to the basic wines, they offer good value and are top-flight wines. The newest baby for Yves Gras comes from his purchase of 1.23 hectares (essentially about 3+ acres) of old vines planted with 100% Grenache in the Chateauneuf du Pape lieu-dit in the very north known as Font du Loup.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083