The late-released 1994 Rioja Reserva Seleccion Especial (a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo and Graciano) is a selection of the finest vineyard sites. After spending six months in large oak vats, and thirty months in small French and American barrels, it was bottled without filtration. A dark garnet color is followed by aromas of roasted coffee, smoke, black as well as red currants, minerals, and scorched earth. Dense and sweet, with notions of lead pencil, plum, and black currant fruit, this spectacular, medium to full-bodied Rioja possesses gorgeous purity. It is a harmonious effort with intense flavor concentration, a beautiful texture, and subtle wood. Enjoy it now as well as over the next 20 years. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Maturing now, this ripe red offers coffee, toast and roasted fruit flavors, with ample tannins and an enlivening acidity. Though not entirely harmonious, it has the muscle to match with weighty foods. Drink now through 2004.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

Round and fairly plush, this special selection shows a complex nose with cherry, spice, toffee, licorice and leather elements. There is very good depth of predominately sour-cherry fruit and a wonderful texture in the mouth. Finishes firm and dry, with an anise note. Solid tannins could use 2 or 3 years to resolve.——M.M.(8/1/2000)—— 91