The 2008 Cornas Les Chailles is a well-made effort in this tough year. Elegant dark fruits intermixed with notions of burning embers, smoke, herbs, jus de viande, black currants and cherries are present in this round, generously endowed, surprisingly tasty 2008. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. These are undeniably the greatest wines made at Voge since the early 1990s. In top years, the brilliant oenologist Albert Mazoyers produces three separate Cornas cuvees. Only two were made in 2008, Les Chailles (a lieu-dit in Cornas) and Les Vieilles Vignes, a selection of their oldest vines. In great vintages, the flagship cuvee called Les Vieilles Fontaines is produced. It typically ranks alongside Auguste Clape’s Cornas as the “Cornas of the vintage.” The spectacular amphitheater that forms the Cornas appellation produces better wines in challenging vintages than many other appellations since it forms a natural bowl for capturing heat. Moreover, with its well-drained soils it is always a good candidate in some of the tougher vintages such as 2008. The 2009 Cornas offerings are spectacular, being more forward and precocious as well as evolved. Importer: Citadel Trading Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 245-2844

Bright and very lively, with lots of red currant, blackberry and mesquite notes pushed by roasted vanilla, tobacco and olive. Shows good intensity on the finish, while staying focused and pure. Very solid for the vintage. Drink now through 2014. 450 cases made.??–JM??Region: France / Northern Rh?ne / Cornas Select to Add