The superb 2006 Les Beaux Cailloux Chardonnay reverts back to the engaging aromatics of the Seven Poplars with a hazelnut and white peach infused nose, beautiful balance on the palate with mandarin, white peach and a touch of honey on the finish.. The precocious Craggy Range has rapidly become one of New Zealand’s premier wine producers. Established in 1997, it is the collaboration between businessman Terry Peabody and the winemaking expertise of quiet, retiring Steve Smith MW, who concentrates upon the Bordeaux-blend “Sophia” and the Sauvignon Blanc. Smith has employed the skills of Rob Easthope to focus upon Chardonnay and Syrah and Adrian Baker on Pinot Noir, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. The state-of-the-art winery is modeled on futuristic architecture and is over-shadowed by the peaks that give rise to their name. The philosophy is firmly directed towards small production of single vineyard sites a la Burgundy. They purchased their own vineyard in the Te Muna sub-region of Martinborough where Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are cultivated, whilst fruit from the South Island is out-sourced. Their two flagship wines of “Sophia,” a Bordeaux blend and “Le Sol,” which is 100% Syrah. Recent vintages of these were tasted both at the winery and appeared in blind horizontal tasting where their quality shone through. Importer: Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700; Fax (914) 253-7910

A warm, lush style of Chardonnay, with ripe fruit notes of peach and melon framed by roasted nuts. It’s on the full-bodied side of the spectrum, with acids that almost seem to fall away on the finish. Drink now.——J.C.(11/1/2009)—— 89