Zyme’s flagship wine is the 2007 Harlequin. Representing the best selection of the same 15 grape varieties used in the Kairos, Harlequin is a seriously big wine no matter how you approach it. Inky dark in appearance, it oozes forth over the senses with dark fruit, pungent Indian spice, cinnamon snap, cherry liqueur, dried herbs, tobacco, resin and tar. The idea here is to present massive oneness of vinous intensity and momentum, rather than highlight the characteristics of any single grape variety. The wine is so huge, I’m not sure what foods would pair here other than grilled T-bone steak. Give it at least five years to find balance before popping the cork. Drink 2017-2027. From his cave-like cellars in San Pietro in Cariano, Celestino Gaspari oversees some of the most exciting and innovative work underway in Valpolicella today. At one point in his career, it seemed likely that Celestino would take the reigns from his late father-in-law, Giuseppe Quintarelli. But many years before the death of that legendary Valpolicella figure, Celestino decided to break off and start his own brand instead. He approached his new project with a level of creative expression and new thinking that is rare to find in a region steeped so deeply in local tradition. Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, www.bjwm.com