The Bocca di Lupo is produced from a blend of 80% Aglianico and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and spends 12 months in French oak barrels, of which 50% are new. 2000 was a superb year for this region. The wine exhibits peppery, earthy, chocolately, fruit notes along with restrained toasty oak. Full-bodied, chewy, and rich, it is appealing for its up-front fruit, glycerin, and personality. The 2000 is deep and long, with velvety tannin. It should drink well for 5-7 years or longer. Importer: Remy Amerique, New York, NY; tel. (212) 399-0200

How smooth is this luscious bruiser—a combination of 90% Aglianico and 10% Cab Sauvignon? Pull out the knife and fork and find out. The color is splendidly opaque, and the palate is packed with cherry, cassis, mint and menthol. The finish is chewy, with mouth-coating tannins. Very pretty and wall-to-wall in terms of structure. From Antinori’s Puglian operation.——M.S.(12/15/2003)—— 93