The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perriere comes from a 0.2-hectare plot of 35- and 60-year-old vines. Raised in 30% new oak, it has a perfumed, potent mineral-rich bouquet with wild strawberry, dark plum and a touch of Seville orange marmalade. The palate is medium-bodied with a beautiful supple opening, a fine sense of symmetry and focus, with great tension toward the saline finish. This is a superb Gevrey-Chambertin imbued with real class. Drink 2014-2025+ Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990