Readers who enjoy the aromas and flavors of oranges and tangerines will appreciate the 2004 St.-Joseph Deschants blanc, a beautiful, crisp, medium-bodied, dry white to drink over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Smells clean and fresh, but this wine is less about bouquet and flavor than it is about weight and texture. It's broad and mouthfilling, and while it has modest apple and melon fruit, it's not particularly fruit-expressive, making it a versatile wine with food. Picks up mineral and spice notes on the finish.——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 87