Guigal's best recent red Hermitage, probably the best he has ever produced, is the 1990. Marcel Guigal believes it is the finest Hermitage made at this firm since 1955. I have followed the 1990 since I first tasted its component parts. It exhibits a nose of intense peppery, jammy, black-raspberry fruit intertwined with scents of smoke, vanillin, and spices. With full body, great depth of fruit and purity, and considerable tannin in the finish, it is already approachable because of its long aging in foudres and small barrels. This rich, thick, concentrated wine should drink well for 20-25 years. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; Tel. (617) 731-6644

Beautiful aromas of raspberry and cedar follow through on the lush, full palate. It's intense and well crafted, with a long, rich finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made. -