Aromatically, the Volnay Clos Des Chenes offers cloves, violets and cherries. On the palate this medium-to-full-bodied wine is powerful, elegant, oily-textured with concentrated layers of roses and spicy red and black fruits. Long and balanced, it should evolve beautifully with cellaring. Projected maturity: 1999-2005. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel: (212) 818-0770.

Aromatically, the Volnay Clos Des Chenes offers cloves, violets and cherries. On the palate this medium-to-full-bodied wine is powerful, elegant, oily-textured with concentrated layers of roses and spicy red and black fruits. Long and balanced, it should evolve beautifully with cellaring. Projected maturity: 1999-2005. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel: (212) 818-0770.

Middle-of-the-road C?te de Beaune, with some green, stemmy, cassis bush and red berry character. Medium-bodied, it turns a bit astringent on the finish; needs some cellaring. Best from 1999 through 2002.??–PM??Region: France / Burgundy / Volnay Select to Add