Rene Barbier kindly poured two older vintages. The 1992 Clos Mogador would have come from a 7-year-old vineyard. It has aged well with a slightly smudged nose of mulberry, wild strawberry, leather and animal fur with a touch of toffee in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, and though not terribly complex, it is well-balanced with a fresh, supple finish of crushed strawberry, fennel and a touch of sage. Drink now if you still have a bottle. Clos Mogador needs no introduction. Rene Barbier was a pupil of Jean-Claude Berrouet and is one of the “founding fathers” in Priorat as part of the “Gratallops group.” I met him for the first time at his home, located at the bottom of a never-ending winding dirt track and surrounded by vines. He was accompanied by his wife and energetic son, also named Rene and married to Sara Perez (see Mas Martinet.) Their 20-hectare dry farmed, vineyard is located on schistous slate and quartz soil (llicorella) and planted with 40% Garnacha (80-year-old vines) , 20% Carinena, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah. The wine is raised in Nevers and Allier oak with minimal intervention. Importer: Christopher Cannan; www.europvin.com , except for “Manyetes” (Bryce McNamee., Loest & McNamee; www.boutiquewines.info)

This tough red is tannic and smoky, with slightly charred flavors of game and toast over a core of plum flavors. Despite the moutfilling tannins, the finish is long. Best after 1997.??–TM??Region: Spain / Priorat Select to Add