According to Tollot, fully 60% of the dark-colored 2003 Beaune Clos du Roi (red) harvest was raisin-like, shriveled berries. Its aromatics, reminiscent of a dark berry jam, lead to a thick, dense core of black cherries, blackberries, tangy cassis liqueur, and spices. Almost syrupy, it is medium-bodied, powerful, and impressively long in the finish. “I know some people will like it but I do not as it isn’t typical,” said Tollot. It may not be typical, Mr. Tollot, but it is darned good! Projected maturity: now-2013. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company., New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400