The 1988 Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru from Faiveley has lasted well, although it is certainly cut from a different cloth than the refined wines of today. Here, it has a stalky bouquet with damp moss and tobacco infusing the rather obdurate carapace of black fruit. The palate is masculine and tannic - "blocky" being the adjective I write down. It does mellow in the glass, that backbone finally softening, and therefore it is advisable to offer this an hour or two decanting. This is an enjoyable wine, though outclassed by Drouhin-s 1978 Clos-de-Beze tasted alongside. Tasted September 2013.