As usual with this old vines cuvee, the Groffier 2006 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain was well-concentrated and divided (without disharmony) between ripe red fruits and game. Offering the sappy vigor characteristic of so many of the better wines of its vintage, there is nothing "little" about this wine other than its appellation and (relatively speaking, at least) its price. A certain tightness might actually lessen with a couple of years' bottle age, but I would plan to enjoy this within four. A smoky, faintly fecal, astringent – if nonetheless sweetly ripe – Bourgogne was on balance far less satisfying. The 2006 Groffier collection – from fruit picked beginning September 23, and in only four days – was noticeably lower in alcohol than a number of recent predecessors, and was diminished by one-third vis-a-vis 2005, after botrytis- and hail-affected berries had been culled.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93, also imported by Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com