Clair’s 2005 Chambertin Clos de Beze – from vines going back to 1913 – displays black raspberry, cassis, licorice, and sea spray in the nose. Delivering a formidably concentrated but unusually vigorous and dynamic impression of this great site, it bursts with black fruit and meat juices, along with soy sauce, then showers the palate with site-typical rose petals in a finish of brightness, grip, and vibratory intensity. Here is a thoroughbred that is a real racer ... but I would expect to wait a decade after placing my bets. Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802