The 2006 Contea di Sclafani Rosso del Conte is rich, massive and powerful in this vintage. Deep layers of dark fruit, mint, smoke, tar and licorice emerge, but only reluctantly. Today the tannins remain imposing, suggesting the Rosso del Conte needs at least a few more years in bottle in order to come together. The 2006 is decidedly more closed than it was a few months back, but not to worry, this is a wine with a brilliant track record for developing positively in bottle. Readers who want to learn more about previous vintages may want to take a look at a recent article on www.erobertparker.com. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Tasca d-Almerita is one of Sicily's most consistent producers. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Black fruit nose. Big mouthfeel erring on the side of bitter tannins. Great future judging by what emerges on finish.

One of the greatest wines to be born on Sicilian soil, Rosso del Conte is a rich and complex wine with numerous aromatic accents to keep you entertained. You’ll get blackberry, forest floor, cola, pipe tobacco and leather. It is soft and luscious and lasts a long time on the palate.——M.L.(5/1/2010)—— 92