The Pouilly-Fuisse Clos de Monsieur Noly Reserve Vieilles Vignes's super-concentrated aromatics reveal evidence of sur-maturite as well as scents reminiscent of almond and acacia flower extracts. Its muscular, powerful, medium-to-full-bodied, and surprisingly vibrant personality saturates the palate with layers of peach pit, mineral, peanut oil, anise, and poached pear flavors. This hedonistic, thick, unctuously-textured gem is particularly stunning because of its brilliant balance and well-delineated finish. Projected maturity: 2000-2008. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.

The Pouilly-Fuisse Clos de Monsieur Noly Reserve Vieilles Vignes's super-concentrated aromatics reveal evidence of sur-maturite as well as scents reminiscent of almond and acacia flower extracts. Its muscular, powerful, medium-to-full-bodied, and surprisingly vibrant personality saturates the palate with layers of peach pit, mineral, peanut oil, anise, and poached pear flavors. This hedonistic, thick, unctuously-textured gem is particularly stunning because of its brilliant balance and well-delineated finish. Projected maturity: 2000-2008.Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.